[Sanu Sherpa is the third person in Nepal and South Asia to climb all fourteen peaks listed above 8,000 meters. No one has completed the double ascent of the 8000ers on earth, whereas Sanu is on a race to complete the task and is about to make a unique record no one else has done in the world of mountaineering so far. Nabraj Ghimire from Kathmandu has lately got a chance to talk with Mr. Sherpa about his ongoing project and life. Presented here is the edited excerpt of the talk.]
Nabraj: You have climbed all the 8000ers, starting with your conquest of Sishapangma in 2006 and finishing with Dhaulagiri in 2019. What are you doing these days?
Sanu: Yes between 2006 and 2019, I completed climbing the 8000ers and have also climbed seven of these mountains — Lhotse, Manaslu, Shishapangma, Everest, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak and Nanga Parbat twice in same time frame. After completing the first phase of 8000ers climbing, an idea occurred to my mind to complete remaining 7 to make the double accent of the mountains. I am already in this process and am focusing on my upcoming climbs.
Nabraj : After 2019 , COVID 19 hit the Himalayan climbing very badly. How are you managing to climb the remaining 7 8000ers?
Sanu: Yes, the year 2020 was not a great year for us; so I could not choose the mountains of my interest. But I was working last year with the seven summits as a member of the Royal Bahrain expedition. I guided one of the members to Manaslu as a personal guide. But in 2021, I managed to climb Annapurna. After climbing Annapurna, I thought to finish Dhaulagiri immediately after, and after a break of a week, I went to climb Dhaulagiri but due to high COVID-19 cases, I had to return from Camp 3. After a week’s rest in Kathmandu, I went to climb Lhotse and managed to do it. Back in 2021 autumn, I was able to conquer Dhaulagiri for the second time, which I had left unclaimed in 2021 spring.
Nabraj: After the Historic K2 winter ascent of 2019/20, you were among the first guides to reach the K2 in summer. Can you tell something about your K2 diary?
Sanu: I was offered to guide commercial clients for Pioneer Adventure for K2 in July for which we boarded a private chartered local Plane to Lahore on June 25, 2021, because the normal flights were all disturbed due to COVID-19 pandemic. We then approached K2 base camp on 27/07/2021 7:30AM local time. Finally, I reached the summit. I was also among the first men to see the three missing climbers from the 2019/20 winter expedition.
Nabraj: What came in your mind when you saw the missing climbers from K2 winter?
Sanu: First, when I saw them from a distance, I wondered who had been there before me to fix the ropes. Later, when I approach to them I found that they were the missing climbers form last winter. Together, we were 7 in the crew working as fixing Sherpas but I was leading the team. In Blue Ice, I was the most experienced one among my contemporaries. On the first day, we saw two bodies — that of John Ali and JP — whereas we found John Snorri next day on our way to the summit. We kept updating about these findings to the base camp, and the world knew about our lost heroes.
Nabraj: You also did pushups on the top of the Mount K2. How was this experience?
Sanu: Yes, to warm up my body I managed to do 17 pushups and it really warmed up my body. That was a wonderful and a unique experience for me.
Nabraj: How do you plan to complete the remaining mountains like Makalu, Kanchenjunga and G2?
I am planning to hit Makalu and Kanchenjunga in 2022 spring. In summer, I will be going for G2. After that, I will be done with the double accent of the 14 8000ers.
Nabraj: Have you climbed any mountain without oxygen?
Sanu: Yes, beside Mt Everest, Makalu, Kanchenjunga and K2, I climbed 10 other mountains without oxygen. I usually enjoy without oxygen but when I am in my job I prefer to use oxygen for the safety of my clients. I also have some evidences that it is a good idea to carry oxygen.
Nabraj: Can you tell me something about your past?
I came from a remote village in Sankhuwasabha District near Makalu, the 5th highest 8000ers. I was a little herdsman spending my time with sheep and yaks in the meadows and forests. After I came into mountaineering my life changed. In 2005, I left my village because of extreme poverty, and worked as a porter and kitchen helper, but due to my good physical condition, hard work, and honesty, the company I worked for lent enough trust in me, and I was lucky to lead a Korean team to Cho Oyo which turned to be my first 8000ers. And after this, I started loving my work and am doing my best. So here I am today.
Nabraj : To which places have you traveled?
Sanu : China and south Korea,. Hopefully after the double accent, I will see some other parts of the world.
Nabraj: Since you are doing double accent and having a unique record, how do you see records that are currently taking place in Himalayan mountaineering theater?
Sanu: Yes many climbers are doing it for making records and they are doing everything to make it happen. But I climb mountains for my bed and bread. I didn’t do all this merely to make records; I worked for living and later it turned to be a record. My records are natural as I am. I have had the successful ascent of Everest 7 times and have claimed the South Col many times. I have worked in many mountains as a rope fixing team member, which is among the most difficult job. If I find a sponsor, helicopter from base camp to base camp and some Sherpa’s to fix the ropes, I will conquer all the fourteen 8000ers in a couple of months.