Saun Purnima in Karnali: A Museum of Different Nepali Cultures

KB Simple 

The Karnali Region, the origin of Nepali language, culture and civilization, is also a museum of different cultures. The Region is the real pillar of ancient folk culture. 

One and all should visit the nook and cranny, and settlements of the Karnali region if a language is forgotten, a culture lost and civilization shrunk. All the matters relating to language, culture, and civilizations received in Karnali are equal to the findings of the research. 

The residents of Karnali, who maintained their traditions and cultures for long ago, have been preserving, protecting and promoting their immense civilizations even in the 21st century. 

Of the 12 Purnimas (the full moon nights) in a year, the locals of Karnali mark 10 Purnimas (except Mangsir and Poush Purnimas) with fanfare and gaiety by worshiping gods and goddesses, making the temples neat and tidy by smearing. 

Importance of Saun Purnima     

People in Karnali desperately wait the celebration and miracles of gods and goddesses on Saun Purnima. They make preparations by arranging new clothes, jewelries and foodstuffs to celebrate the Saun Purnima in a grand fashion. 

The residents of Karnali, who get tired by working in the field in Asar month, even forget their exhausted strength from the arrival of Saun Purnima. Ancient culture is a mirror of every society and thereby, it is an invaluable asset. Human civilization does not exist sans social custom and culture. 

The local dhami–jhankris (conjurers) take a daily bath from Ekadashi (the eleventh day of rising moon) while the others leave for Tibet in the north and Nepalgunj and Surkhet in the south to purchase necessary goods including clothes. 

Worships of the gods and goddesses begin from Shukla Trayodashi (the thirteen day of the bright fortnight). As per the tradition, locals worship in masta and Durga temples (devsthal or madu). 

 On Trayodashi and Chaturdashi (the fourteenth day of rising moon), locals complete worship in private temples in their respective streets. And, all people of a VDC or two gather in a temple (Devsthal) on the day of Purnima to worship collectively. 

In a query asked about importance of Saun Purnima, Dhami Nar Bahadur Shahi of Vuyar God of Rodikot village said, “The gods and goddesses often roam across the holy regions in Himalayas and Basins (also known as Patan in the western districts of Nepal) in Saun month. In this time, people can go to take bath in Dudhe Daha and other water reservoirs (Jal Kunda). Likewise, those people wishing to swear in as the Dhami and Jhankris are also required to take a holy bath in such lakes including Dudhe Dahal and others. People cannot go there to take the holy bath during the winter season. Different kinds of flowers blossom in the upper parts of the region and the gods and goddesses also live there to smell the fragrant smell of the flowers. So, we (locals) bring flowers blossomed in the upper belts and Buki (a kind of grass in the highlands). The elated gods and goddesses roam here and there in the Himalayas during Saun and Bhadra months by being happy. Every settlements of Karnali zone is enthralled by happiness brought about by the Saun Purnima.              

Appointment and Swearing in of New Dhamis

In case of untimely death of a dhami or death of an elderly dhami or if necessity of a new dhami was realized, a new dhami would be selected from among the god worshippers of the concerned communities to fulfill the vacant post in the same community. The would be dhami should take a bath by going in Mansarobar as far as practicable or in a holy pond in the upper parts if he was not able to visit Mansarobar to take a holy bath on the day of Saun Purnima. It is believed that the would-be dhami would be endowed with godly powers only after taking the holy bath in such ponds but otherwise he is not likely to be a dhami. If the godly powers were not transferred in the would be dhami, he would drown. Therefore, taking god’s incarnation is a must. 

After taking a holy bath in kunda (ponds), all reach in the respective devsthal (shrine) early in the morning on Saun Purnima. And the god worshipper bring the flowers, prasada, akshata, a heat goat and a she calf by playing local bands in the name of gods. The god worshippers sit in the area where gods are supposed to dwell in devsthal. The same worshippers prepare puri and the women sign Magal. The priests also known as Dangari worship while the band players play the bands for gods’ sake. The new and old dhamis dance by taking incarnation of the gods. They also forecast based on their capacity while some others show miracles.

Miracles 

Extracting wires of gold and silver from wheat and rice, converting the color of wheat and rice into black one in hand, producing chilly trees, taking out bells from river, vomiting blood and milk, growing Jamara, chopping off men and joining the and chewing bells, among others are the miracles shown by gods in the day. He goats and cocks are sacrificed for gods and gods’ guards (Parkhale). 

The fresh dhami gets incarnation from the main god and describes his birth stages. Similarly, the main priest (dangri) also gets incarnation of main god (Bhudaro) and pour cow milk and rice on the head of new dhami and a snatch made up of silver is tied on tuppi, the terminal hair on the head, which indicates the appointment of a new dhami.

Forecast

The gods and goddesses of the region make forecasting on different issues including election results, birth of a baby boy or girl and beginning of monsoon. Similarly, people of the region take decisions on journeys and sports, shifting of the cattle, marriage time, Bratabandha, laying foundation stone of a house only after asking with the government, locals Harish Chandra Shahi and Bhaiva Bahadur Shahi of Gothi VDC shared. 

On the very day, the shepherds and milkman remain in a queue by bringing yogurt (galim), rice pudding, ghee and other milk products from cowsheds in the Himalayas. On the occasion, the locals apply ghee on the hair of dhamis while offer rice pudding and galim to the guests. Likewise, they offer Puri and bread, Lapsi, potato chips, apples, cucumber and other food items to the guests with due respect. People worship from 9 am to 12:00 in the noon (for at least 3 hours) and offer worships, show cultural dances and held discussions on social welfare issues between the ‘gods’ and commoners. The band players beat the bands while dhami/jhankris also dance until they were tired.           

The new and old dhami dance by hugging each other based on their separate bands. The new dhami learn to dance from the old ones and this becomes an opportunity to learn the language of the gods (dev-bhasa) from the senior ones. The gods’ dhamis say, “This is the only day to meet the brothers (other dhami). This is also the day of Rama.” 

After the completion of the worship and dhami dance at around 12 in the noon, the guests from different villages gathered to visit the Purnima festival sing the Deuda duet songs, the age-old tradition. Locals Mangal and Dipak Shahi said that sports competition is also held in the modern day. 

They said conserving the old traditions and organizing the sports tournaments and informing the locals about the new developments of human being are necessary and the positive use of the things should be taken into consideration.

Deuda has been an important culture in all kinds of celebrations including festival, feasts and others in Karnali zone. All the celebrations in the region would be dull without Deuda. The Deuda song is the major tool to entertainment in the region and it brings about new vigor and enthusiasm.     

The guests are offered sweet and delicious food items from 12 to 1:00 in the afternoon after completing the worships. Then, the locals sing Deuda continuously till the next morning. 

The married women come to their parental home and play and dance in Deuda songs with other married ladies of their ages saying that even a crow of their parents’ home is lovelier.

Married women: 

Punika Niurale Aaya, Bholi ta Baijaula

(We came here on the occasion of Purnima and will return tomorrow)

Bachi Rakya Arko Sal, Saunpuni Ayijaula

(Will come on Saun Purnima next year if remained alive.)

Unmarried girls:

Bubaki Piyari Chhori, Kharkaki Gothali

(A lovelier daughter of father, I am a herder in the upper Himalayas.) 

Saun Puni Ayijanu Haikya, Basula Otali

(Please visit the Saun Purnima, we will stay enjoying.) 

The married and unmarried women share their feelings like in the abovementioned verse.

Around 8 to 10 people sing the Deuda song in each Devasthal, entertaining the participants mostly. It is so much interesting and funny that it is inexpressible in words. To feel the merriment and take romance of the Saun Purnima, people should visit the villages of Karnali zone at least once in their life. 

The game between boys and girls are more interesting and the spectators too throng the same group. On the other hand, the spectators also watch the Deuda games by selecting the groups based on their performance and level of enjoyment. 

Deuda of the teenagers:

Boys: Humla Jumla Mugu Dolpa, Kanchha Kalikot

(Humla Jumla Mugu Dolpa and Kalikot) 

Mam Khana Paine Ho Ki, Dei Ka Lali Oth 

(Are we getting a chance to eat our fill, your red lips)  

Girls: Jhan Jhan Launya Vadulliya, Jhan Maya Gairinchha. 

(The more remembrance, the more we fall in love)  

Varkhar Phul Kopila Vayo, Falya Ko Parinchha.

(The flower is just blossoming, will offer it once it flowered.)   

Boys:  Karnalika Nadi Nadi, Yo Jholunge Pool

(Along the Karnali river, many suspension bridges) 

Ma Kana Pairanu Varyai, Hajarika Phul

(Which flower shall I use among them?)

Girls: Barkha Ganga Ullamel, Hiyud Ganga Sek

(The river is swollen in the rainy season and recedes in winter.)

  Tilapatra Vaya Pachhi, Hoijanchhu Ki Yek

(After having an agreement letter, both of us become one)

In this way, the girls and boys play the Deuda and the boys call the girls as the sweet smelling flowers and propose they should get the chance to use the flower after they flowers. In response, the girls answer saying that they would be united if the luck favored them. 

Asked about Deuda game, Babar Jung Shahi said, “The cultures of Karnali remain alive if Deuda was brought into practice frequently. Such competitions should be continued time and again to continue our tradition.” 

 Even the guests and villages in different parts of the Karnali zone play Deuda on different occasions. Political, social, rituals of the villages, facilities and problems of the communities concerned are expressed through Deuda.

Male guests: Balinali Sukigochha, Khaderile Garda

(Crops have dried up due to drought)

Panikulo Lyaunalia, Kohi Aghi Nasarda

(As none take initiative to construct a canal for irrigation)

Local males: Jasta Liya Hajurka, Ustai Liya Mera

(My situation is also not different from that of yours)

Dhanbernu Berna Jhai Sukyo Tya Hajurka Sera

(The seedlings have dried up in the field)

 They even sing about local development workers and politicians and praise their good performances. 

The tradition of worshipping gods and goddesses in Saun Purnima is preservation of the ancestral culture while singing Deuda is the conservation of culture. On the other hand, organizing sports tournament on the occasion of such celebration is to add energy to promote culture and is also an indication of increased importance of such festivals, says Jiban Shahi, Hasta Bahadur Malla and Dhankaura Shahi. 

While singing the Deuda, the guests are served meals from 7:00 pm to 1:00 am at night and sing the whole night. While warping up the Deuda, they make commitments to meet on the next Saun Purnima.: 

Deuda: Yetako Baishakh Hola, Utako Jestha Hola

(It is mid-April to mid-May here and mid-May to mid-June there)

Bachi Raya Arko Sal Saun Puni Bhet Hola

(We will meet next Saun Purnima if left alive.)  

[Source: Lok Sanskriti, Vol. 8 (Nepali Music Center, Kathmandu). Trans: Mahendra Subedi] 

[KB Simple is a researcher and poet from Humla. He has many research works, especially on literature and culture of the Karnali Region, published in reputed journals and periodicals. He divides his time between Humla and Kathmandu.]